The following garden calendars are written by
Rosie Lerner, Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist, and are distribut=
ed
to news
J=
anuary
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
Keep holiday poinsettias and other plants near a bright window. Water as top of soil becomes dry.
Increase humidity around houseplants by grouping plants together, placing them on a pebble-water tray or running a humidifier.
Check stored produce and tender flower bulbs and roots for rot, shriveli= ng or excess moisture. Remove and discard damaged material.
Repot houseplants as they outgrow current pots.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals a= nd fruits)
Check young trees for rodent injury on lower trunks. P= revent injury with hardware cloth or protective collars.
Keep road and sidewalk salt away from plants. Construct a screen of burl= ap, if necessary, to keep salt spray off plants.
"Leaf" through nursery catalogs and make plans for landscape a= nd home orchard additions. Order plants early for best selection.
Early spring-flowering trees and shrubs, such as forsythia, crabapple, flowering quince, flowering dogwood and honeysuckle, can be forced for early indoor blooms by placing cut branches in water in a warm location.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Send for seed catalogs for the garden.
Sketch your garden plans on paper, including what to grow, spacing, arrangement and number of plants needed.
Order seeds and plants as early as possible for best selection.
Wood ashes from the fireplace can be spread in the garden, but don't ove= rdo it. Wood ashes increase soil pH, and excess application can make some nutri= ents unavailable for plant uptake. Have soil tested to be certain of the pH befo= re adding wood ash.
F=
ebruary
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
Check water levels in cut flowers daily.
Check stored produce and flower bulbs for rot, shriveling or excess moisture. Discard damaged material.
Most houseplants require less water in winter months because growth is slowed or stopped. Check soil for dryness before watering.
Move houseplants to brighter windows, but don't place plants in drafty places or against cold windowpanes.
Early blooms of spring-flowering bulbs can make good gifts for a sweethe= art. Keep the plant in a bright, cool location for longer-lasting blooms. Forced bulbs make poor garden flowers and should be discarded as blooms fade.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals a= nd fruits)
Choose appropriate species and cultivars of plants, and begin drawing landscaping plans.
Cut branches of forsythia, pussy willow, crabapple, quince, honeysuckle = and other early spring-flowering plants to force into bloom indoors. Place the branches in warm water, and set them in a cool location.
Check mulches, rodent shields, salt/wind screens and other winter plant protection to make sure they are still in place.
Prune landscape plants, except early spring bloomers, which should be pr= uned after flowers fade. Birches, maples, dogwoods and other heavy sap bleeders = can be pruned in early summer to avoid the sap flow, although bleeding is not harmful to the tree.
Fruit trees also should be pruned now.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and = small fruits)
Order seeds before it's too late for this year's plant= ing.
Sketch garden plans, including plants to replace or replant crops that a= re harvested in spring or early summer.
Prepare or repair lawn and garden tools for the upcoming season.
Start seeds indoors for cool-season vegetables so they will be ready for transplanting to the garden early in the season. Broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage seeds should be started five to seven weeks prior to transplanting.=
Test leftover garden seed for germination. Place 10 seeds between moist paper toweling or cover with a thin layer of soi= l. Keep seeds warm and moist. If less than six seeds germinate, then fresh seed should be purchased.
March
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
Begin fertilizing houseplants as new growth appears. K= eep spent leaves and flowers removed to improve appearance and encourage more blooms.
Start garden seeds indoors for transplanting outdoors later in spring.
Check stored bulbs and produce for decay; discard damaged items.
Prune, repot and clean houseplants as needed.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals a= nd fruits)
Prune trees and shrubs, except those that bloom early = in spring, while plants are still dormant.
Plant new trees and shrubs as soon as soil dries eno= ugh to be worked. Plant bare-root plants before they leaf out.
Fertilize woody plants before new growth begins, but after soil temperat=
ures
have reached 40 F -- around early March in southern
Remove winter coverings from roses as soon as new growth begins. Prune a= nd fertilize as needed.
Apply superior oil spray to control scale insects and mites when tips of leaves start to protrude from buds.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and = small fruits)
Plant cool-season vegetables and f= lowers as soon as the ground has dried enough to work. Do NOT work the soil while it is wet; wait until it crumbles in your hand. If the soil forms a s= olid ball when squeezed, it's still too wet.
Gradually harden off transplants by setting them outdoors during the day= time for about a week before planting.
Follow last fall's soil test recommendations for fertilizer and pH adjustment. It's not too late to test soil if you missed last year.
Start seeds of warm-season vegetables and flowers indoors; in northern a=
nd
central
Watch for blooms of early spring bulbs, such as daffodils, squill, crocus, dwarf iris and snowdrops.
Remove old asparagus and rhubarb tops, and sidedres= s the plants with nitrogen or manure. Plant or transplant asparagus, rhubarb = and small fruit plants.
Remove winter mulch from strawberry beds as soon as new growth begins, b= ut keep the mulch nearby to protect against frost and freezes.
Remove weak, diseased or damaged canes from raspberry plants before new growth begins. Remove old fruiting canes if not removed last year, and shor= ten remaining canes if necessary.
Prune grapevines.
April
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
Start seeds of warm-season plants, including tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, marigolds, zinni= as and petunias, indoors for transplanting later to the garden.
Harden off transplants started earl= ier in spring before planting outdoors-gradually expose the young plants to outdoor conditions of wind, brighter sunlight and lower moisture.
Apply fertilizer to houseplants acc= ording to label directions as days grow brighter and longer and new growth begins. Foliage plants require relatively high nitrogen fertilizer, while blooming plants thrive on formulations that are higher in phosphorus.
Keep Easter lily in a bright, cool location, out of direct sunlight. Water as soil begins to dry. The yellow pollen-bearing anthers inside the flower can be removed by pinching to prev= ent staining of the petals.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Plant a tree in celebration of National Arbor Day, April 26. Bare-root stock should be plan= ted before new top growth begins. Balled- and-burlapped and containerized stock can still be planted later in spring.
Fertilize woody plants before new g= rowth begins. Two pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet should be sufficient.
Complete pruning chores, removing d= ead and injured branches first.
Apply a preblo= om, multipurpose orchard spray to fruit trees.
Remove winter coverings from roses,= but keep mulch nearby for protection from late freezes. Prune and fertilize as needed.
Apply pre-emergent herbicide to con=
trol
crabgrass in lawns. Approximate dates of application are April 1 to April 2=
0 in
southern
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Plant seeds of cool-season crops directly in the garden as soon as soil dries enough to be worked. When squeezed, soil should crumble instead of forming a ball. Cool-season crops that can be direct-seeded include peas, lettuce, spinach, carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips and Swiss chard.
Plant transplants of cool-season cr= ops, such as broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi and onio= ns.
Plant or transp= lant asparagus and rhubarb crowns. For best plant establishment, do not harvest until the third year after planting.
Plant sections of certified, diseas= e-free potato "seed" tubers.
Allow foliage of spring-flowering b= ulbs to remain in place after blooms fade. Leaves manufacture the food reserves, which are then stored in the bulb for a repeat showing next year.
Plant hardy per= ennials, such as daylilies and delphiniums.
Start tuberous begonias and caladiu= ms indoors for transplanting to garden later.
Remove winter mulch from strawberri= es, but keep mulch handy in case late frosts are predicted and to help keep wee= ds under control.
Plant or transp= lant strawberries, raspberries and other small fruit.
Prune grape vines to remove dead or weakened limbs, and repair support trellises as needed.
May
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
Many indoor plants can be moved to shady locations out= doors but only after danger of frost is past. Plants will dry out more often outd= oors, so keep a close eye on soil moisture. Sinking the pots in soil will help sl= ow down moisture loss.
Now is a good time to take cuttings of houseplants to increase a collect=
ion
or share with friends. Root cuttings in
Fertilize houseplants according to label directions. Foliage plants requ= ire relatively high nitrogen fertilizer; flowering houseplants respond best to fertilizer high in phosphorus.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Prune early spring-flowering trees and shrubs after fl= owers fade.
Plant balled-and-burlapped or container nurs= ery stock, and water thoroughly.
Remove and destroy overwintering bagworms fr= om landscape trees and shrubs.
Follow a spray schedule to keep home-orchard crops pest free. While trees are in bloom, use fungicide sprays without insecticide to avoid injury to b= ees. Follow label directions.
Thin fruits of apple trees, if needed, about three weeks after petal fal= l. Apples should be about 8 inches apart.
Apply fungicides to roses to control diseases such as black spot.
Apply herbicide to control broadleaf weeds in the lawn if they are a problem, but be cautious around garden plants to prevent spray drift. Never spray on a windy day.
Purdue turf experts recommend that if you are going to fertilize your la= wn in May, apply three-fourths to 1 pound N/1000 square foot with a product th= at contains 50 percent or more slow-release fertilizer. Try to schedule the application prior to a rain or irrigate following application to move the fertilizers off the leaf blade.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Plant frost-tender plants after danger of frost is pas= t for your area. This includes warm-season vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and vine crops, as well as most annual flowers and tender perennia= ls, such as cannas, gladiolus, dahlias, tuberous begonias and caladiums.
Pinch chrysanthemums and annual flower plants to keep them compact and well-branched.
Make successive plantings of beans and sweet corn to extend the season of harvest.
Thin seedlings of early-planted crops, such as carro= ts, lettuce, spinach and beets, to their proper spacing.
Harvest early plantings of radishes, spinach and lettuce.
Harvest asparagus by cutting or snapping spears at or just below soil le= vel.
Harvest rhubarb by cutting, or grasp the stalk and pull it up and slight= ly to one side.
Control cucumber beetles, carriers of bacterial wilt, as soon as cucumber plants germinate or are transplanted to prevent disease.
Remove blossoms from newly set strawberry plants to allow better runner formation.
Remove unwanted sucker growth in raspberries when new shoots are about a foot tall.
June
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
Indoor plants will require more frequent watering and fertilization as they increase their summer growth.
Houseplants can be moved outdoors to a shady location, but pay close attention to their watering needs.
Cut garden flowers for indoor beauty. Recut the stems again just before placing in water. Add a f= loral preservative, and change the solution frequently.
Root cuttings of houseplants and garden plants to increase your collecti= on or share with a friend.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Prune spring-flowering shrubs after blooms fade.
Apply fungicide to prevent and control black spot on roses.
Water newly planted trees and shrubs. Water deeply e= very seven to 10 days when rain is lacking.
Propagate deciduous shrubs, such as forsythia, lilac, pyracantha and weigela, by stem tip cuttings.
Remove faded flowers and seed pods on lilac and other spring-flowering shrubs.
Do not be alarmed at June drop of tree fruit. It is a natural thinning process for most trees to prevent excessive loads. Thin remaining fruit, if necessary, or prop up heavy branches to avoid breakage. Most fruit should be spaced 6 to 8 inches apart on a branch.
Continue applications of home orchard fruit sprays to maintain problem-f= ree fruit.
Keep grass mowed regularly, but mow high to help protect the crown of the plant from heat stress.
Lawn clippings, unless excessive, should be left on the lawn.
To keep lawn green and growing, water as needed to supply a total of 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week. If left unwatered, lawns will turn brown and become dormant but will green up again when conditions are more favorable.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Discontinue harvest of asparagus and rhubarb around mi= d-June to allow foliage to develop and store food reserves for next year's harvest. Fertilize and water when dry to promote healthy growth.
Mulch to control weeds and conserve soil moisture afte= r soil has warmed. Many materials such as straw, chopped corn = cobs, bark chips, shredded paper and grass clippings can be used.
Blanch (exclude light from) cauliflower when heads are just 2 inches in diameter. Tie leaves up and over the developing head.
Keep weeds controlled. They're easier to pull when they are still young.=
Start seeds of cabbage, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower for f= all garden transplants.
Plan now for your Halloween pumpkin. Determin= e the days to harvest for the particular cultivar you want to plant (usually on t= he seed packet), and count backward to determine the proper planting date.
Harvest spring plantings of broccoli, cabbage and peas.
Remove cool-season plants, such as radish, spinach and lettuce, as they bolt, or form seed stalks, during hot summer weather.
Continue planting carrots, beans and sweet corn for successive harvests.=
For staked tomatoes, remove suckers (branches that form where the leaf j= oins the stem) while they are 1 to 1.5 inches long to allow easier training.
Remove spent blooms of peony, iris, delphiniums and other flowers.
Pinch shoot tips of chrysanthemums, impatiens, petunias and coleus to promote bushier growth.
Remove tops of spring-flowering bulbs only after they have yellowed and withered.
Continue planting gladiolus for a succession of bloom.
Pick strawberries from the garden or a U-pick operation.
Protect ripening strawberries from birds by covering with netting.
Supplement natural rainfall to supply a total of 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week to the garden.
July
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
Watch closely houseplants that have been set outdoors.= They need more water than they did indoors. They can dry out rapidly in hot, sum= mer breezes.
Propagate houseplants by taking cuttings from vigorously growing plants.
Place cut end in rooting
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Keep newly established plants watered during dry weath= er. Allow water to penetrate deeply into soil rather than sprinkling frequently= and lightly.
Apply a mulch around young plants to help con= serve soil moisture and control weeds.
Do not plant bare-root or ball-and-burlap stock at this time of year. Container-grown plants still may be planted, but only if you can keep them = well watered.
Continue a fruit tree spray program to keep diseases and insects under control.
Remove water sprouts (sprouts from the trunk) and suckers (sprouts from = the roots) from fruit trees.
Prop up fruit tree branches that are heavily loaded with fruit.
Pinch off faded rose blossoms. Continue rose spray program to control insects and diseases.
Many
When watering lawns, apply 1 to 1.5 inches of water = in a single application per week. Frequent, light sprinklings will encour= age roots to stay shallow, making them more susceptible to drought.
Mow grass one-half inch higher than usual during the dry, summer months = to help conserve soil moisture.
Don't remove clippings from the lawn unless grass is excessively tall or weedy. Clippings return some nutrients to the soil and do not add to thatch buildup.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Supplement natural rainfall, if any, to supply 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week in a single application.
Start seeds of broccoli, cabbage and Brussels sprouts to transplant later for a fall harvest. Harvest crops such as tomatoes, squash, okra, peppers, beans and cucumbers frequently to encourage further production.
Complete succession planting of bush beans and sweet corn.
Harvest summer squash while small and tender for best quality.
Standard sweet corn is at its peak for only a day or so. The supersweet corn maintains its peak quality for a long= er period. Harvest when silks begin to dry and kernels exude a milky, rather t= han watery or doughy, juice when punctured.
Broccoli will form edible side shoots after the main head is removed.
Mulch garden to control weeds and conserve soil mois= ture.
Make sure potato tubers, carrot shoulders and onion bulbs are covered wi= th soil to prevent development of green color and off flavors. Applying a laye= r of mulch will help keep them covered.
Allow blossoms on newly planted everbearing strawberry plants to develop for a fall crop.
July is a good time to fertilize strawberries with .5 pound of actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row.
Harvest raspberries when fully colored and easily separated from stem. A= fter harvest is complete, prune out the fruiting canes to make room for new grow= th.
Remove faded blossoms from annual and perennial flowers to prevent seed formation.
Condition flowers cut from the garden for arranging by removing lower leaves, placing cut stem ends in warm water and storing overnight in a cool location.
The foliage of spring-flowering bulbs can be removed safely after it fad= es. This also is a good time to lift the bulbs for transplanting or propagation= .
August
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
Take cuttings from plants such as impatiens, coleus, geraniums and wax
begonias to overwinter indoors. Root the cuttin=
gs in
Order spring-flowering bulbs for fall planting.
Cut flowers from the garden to bring a little color indoors or to dry for everlasting arrangements.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Check trees and shrubs that have been planted in recent years for girdli= ng damage by guy wires, burlap or ropes.
Don't fertilize woody plants now. It stimulates late growth that will not have time to harden off properly before winter.
Hand-prune and destroy bagworms, fall webworms and tent caterpillars.
Pears are best ripened off the tree, so do not wait for the fruit to turn yellowish on the tree. Harvest pears when color of fruit changes--usually f= rom a dark green to a lighter green--and when the fruit is easily twisted and removed from the spur.
Prune out and destroy the raspberry and blackberry canes that bore fruits this year. They will not produce fruit again next year, but they may harbor insect and disease organisms.
If weather turns dry, keep newly established plants well watered. New pl= ants should receive 1 to 1.5 inches of water every week to 10 days.
Begin seeding new lawns or bare spots in established lawns in mid-August through mid-September.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Keep the garden well watered during dry weather and free of weeds, insec= ts and disease.
Complete fall garden planting by direct-seeding carrots, beets, kohlrabi, kale and snap beans early this month. Lettuce, spinach, radishes and green onions can be planted later in August and early September. Don't forget to = thin seedlings to appropriate spacing as needed.
Harvest onions after the tops yellow and fall, then cure them in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area. The necks should be free of moisture when fully cured in about a week's time.
Harvest potatoes after the tops yellow and die. Potatoes also need to be cured before storage.
Pick beans, tomatoes, peppers and squash often to encourage further production.
Harvest watermelon when several factors indicate ripeness--the underside ground spot turns from whitish to creamy yellow; the tendril closest to the melon turns brown and shrivels; the rind loses its gloss and appears dull; = and the melon produces a dull thud rather than a ringing sound when thumped.
Harvest sweet corn when kernels are plump and ooze a milky juice when punctured with your fingernail. If the liquid is watery, you're too early; = if the kernels are doughy, you're too late.
Keep faded flowers pinched off bedding plants to promote further floweri= ng and improve plant appearance.
Spade or till soil for fall bulb planting, and add a moderate amount of fertilizer.
September
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
Prepare storage areas for overwin= tering tender flower bulbs and garden produce.
Thanksgiving (or Christmas) cactus can be forced into bloom for the
Thanksgiving holidays. Provide 15 hours of complete darkness each day, for
instance, from
Dig and repot herbs, or take cuttings, for growing indoors over winter.<= /p>
Store leftover garden seed in a cool, dry place. A sealable jar with a layer of silica gel or powdered milk in the bottom works well.
Bring houseplants moved outside for summer indoors before night temperat= ures fall below 55 F. Gradually decrease light to acclimate the plants and help reduce leaf drop. Check and control insects and diseases before putting the= se plants near other houseplants.
Poinsettias saved from last year can be reflowered<= /span> for this year's holiday by providing complete darkness for 15 hours daily f= rom about Oct. 1 until about Dec. 10.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Fall is a good time to plant many container-grown or balled-and-burlapped nursery= stock. Prepare a good-sized hole, plant at the same depth it grew in the nursery a= nd water thoroughly. Mulching will help protect against large fluctuations in = soil temperature and moisture. Be sure to stake or guy-wire tall plants to prote= ct them from strong winds. Wrap tree trunks to protect against frost cracks or animal damage.
Do not be alarmed if your evergreens, particularly white pine and arborvitae, drop some older needles. All evergreens shed needles at some ti= me, but not all at once as deciduous plants do.
Harvest apples, pears, grapes, and everbearing strawberries and raspberries. For most fruits, flavor is the best indicator= of ripeness, although color change also can be a good indicator. However, pears are best ripened off the tree, and grapes change color long before they are fully flavored, so sample the fruit to be sure.
Remove raspberry canes after they bear fruit.
Clean up fallen fruits, twigs and leaves around apple (including crabapp= le) and other fruit trees to reduce disease and insect carryover.
To promote the lawn's recovery from summer stress, apply high-nitrogen fertilizer at the rate of 1 pound actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.
Reseed bare spots or new lawns using a good-quality seed mixture.
Early fall is a good time to apply broadleaf weed killers. Be sure to fo= llow all label directions, and choose a calm day to prevent spray drift.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Dig onions and garlic after tops fall over naturally a= nd necks begin to dry.
Plant radishes, green onion sets, lettuce and spinach for fall harvest.<= /p>
Thin fall crops such as lettuce and carrots that were planted earlier.
Harvest crops such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, melons and sweet potatoes before frost, or cover plants with blankets, newspaper, etc., (but= not plastic) to protect them from light frost.
Mature green tomatoes can be ripened indoors. Individually wrap fruits in newspaper, or leave them on the vine, pulling the entire plant out of the garden. Store in a cool location -- about 55 F to 60 F.=
Harvest winter squash when mature (skin is tough) with deep, solid color, but before hard frost. Some cultivars will show an orange blush when mature= .
Plant, transplant or divide peonies, daylilies, iris and phlox.
Save plants such as coleus, wax begonias, impatiens or fuchsia for indoor
growing over winter. Dig plants and cut them back about halfway, or take
cuttings of shoot tips, and root them in moist vermiculite, soil mix or
Watch for garden chrysanthemums to bloom as days grow shorter. Some may = have bloomed earlier this summer, which will decrease the number of fall blooms.=
Plant spring-flowering bulbs beginning in late Septe= mber. Planting too early can cause bulbs to sprout top growth before winter. Howe= ver, allow at least four to six weeks before the ground freezes for good root formation.
Dig tender bulbs, such as cannas, caladiums, tuberous begonias and gladiolus, before frost. Allow to air dry, and store in dry peat moss or vermiculite.
Cut flowers, such as strawflower, statice, b= aby's breath and celosia, for drying, and hang upside down in a dry, well-ventila= ted area.
October
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
Keep poinsettia in complete darkness for 15 hours each=
day,
for example, between
Pot spring-flowering bulbs to force into bloom indoors. Moisten soil and refrigerate 10 to 13 weeks. Transfer to a cool, sunny location, and allow an additional three to four weeks for blooming.
Houseplants, especially those grown outdoors during the summer, commonly drop some or many of their leaves in response to the lower natural light intensity in autumn and reduced light intensity indoors.
Water indoor plants less frequently, and discontinue fertilizer as plants slow down or stop growing for the winter season.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Keep plants, espe= cially newly planted stock, well-watered until ground freezes.
Have soil ready to mound roses for = winter protection. Do not mound or cover roses until after leaves drop and soil is near freezing, usually late November or early December.
Strawberry plants need protection f= rom winter's extremes, but applying winter mulch too early may cause crowns to = rot. Apply winter protection when plants are dormant but before temperatures drop below 20 F, usually late November or early December.
Rake or shred large, fallen tree le= aves, such as maple, to prevent them from matting down and smothering grass. Raki= ng smaller leaves, such as honey locust, is optional.
Continue mowing lawn as needed.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
Harvest root crops and store in a cold (32 F), humid location. Storing produce in perforated plastic bags is a convenient, easy = way to increase humidity.
Harvest Brussels sprouts as they develop in the axils of the leaves from= the bottom of the stem. Brussels sprouts will continue to develop up the stem.<= /p>
Harvest pumpkins and winter squash before frost, but when rind is hard a= nd fully colored. Store in a cool location until ready to = use.
Harvest gourds when stems begin to brown and dry. Cure at 70-80 F for tw= o to four weeks.
Harvest mature, green tomatoes before frost, and ripen indoors in the da= rk. Warmer temperatures lead to faster ripening.
Asparagus top growth should not be removed until foliage yellows. Let foliage stand over winter to collect snows for insulation and moisture.
=Remove plant debris from the garden to protect next year's planting from insect and disease buildup. Compost plant refuse= by alternating layers of soil, plant material, and manure or commercial fertilizer.
Have garden soil tested for fertilizer needs every three to five years.<= /p>
Plowing and incorporating organic matter in the fall avoids the rush of garden activities and waterlogged soil in spring. Fall-prepared soils also = tend to warm faster and allow earlier planting in spring.
Carve a Halloween jack-o'-lantern.
Dig tender, garden flower bulbs for winter storage. Gladiolus corms shou= ld be dug when leaves begin turning yellow. Caladiums, geraniums and tuberous begonias should be lifted before killing frost. Dig ca= nna and dahlia roots after a heavy frost. Allow to air dry, then pack in dry pe= at moss or vermiculite, and store in a cool location.
Complete planting of spring-flowering bulbs.
November
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
As houseplant growth slows, apply less fertilizer and = water.
If plants are dropping many leaves, move them closer to sunny exposures, such as west- and south-facing windows. Artificial lights may be needed to supplement particularly dark rooms.
Pot spring-flowering bulbs with tips exposed to force into bloom indoors. Moisten soil and refrigerate 10 to 13 weeks. Transfer to a cool, sunny location, and allow an additional three to four weeks for blooming.
Continue dark treatment for poinsettias by keeping them in complete dark=
ness
from
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Prevent rabbit and rodent feeding damage by erecting physical barriers, such as metal mesh (one-quarter-inch) hardware cloth. Pu= ll mulch a few inches away from the trunk, as the mulch provides a warm winter home for rodents. Chemical repellents also are available, but their effectiveness is temporary and not foolproof.
Prevent frost cracking (or sunscald) by wrapping trunks with commercial = tree wrap or painting the south- and southwest-facing sides of the trunk with wh= ite latex outdoor paint. Young, thin-barked trees, such as maples and many fruit trees, are especially susceptible. Be sure to remove the tree wrap by early spring to prevent overheating of the bark.
Remove dead, diseased or damaged branches.
Protect the graft union on rose bushes by mounding soil around the plants and adding mulch on top. Wait until several killing frosts have occurred so plants will be dormant when covered. Plants covered too early may be smothe= red.
If you are planning to order a "live" Christmas tree, prepare = its planting hole before the soil freezes. Mulch the area heavily to prevent freezing, or dig the hole and put fill in a protected, nonfreezing area, su= ch as a garage or basementClean up and discard fal= len leaves and fruits around fruit plants to reduce disease carryover.
Continue mowing lawn as needed. As tree leaves fall, run them through yo= ur mower (remove bagger), allowing the shredded leaves to remain on the lawn. = Be sure to mow only when grass and leaves are dry.
Late fall fertilizing can help keep lawns green into winter and boost ea= rly spring recovery. Apply one-half to 1 pound actual nitrogen, in either water-soluble or slow-release form, per 1,000 square feet of lawn."
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
If frost hasn't taken your garden yet, continue harves= ting.
Harvest mature, green tomatoes before frost and ripen indoors in the dar= k. Store at 55-70 F; the warmer the temperatures, the faster they ripen.
Harvest root crops and store in a cold (32 F), humid location. Use perforated plastic bags as an easy way to increase humidity.
Remove plant debris, both crop and weed, from the garden and discard or compost. This will help reduce the carryover of diseases, insects and weeds= to next year's garden.
Fall tilling, except in erosion-prone areas, helps improve soil structure and usually leads to soils warming and drying faster in the spring, thus allowing crops to be planted earlier.
Apply mulch to strawberries to prevent winter injury or death to their crowns. Wait until temperatures have hit 20 F to be sure plants are dormant= . If mulch is applied too soon, the plant's crown can rot.
Dig and store tender flowering bulbs and keep in a protected location.
Complete planting of spring-flowering bulbs.
December
HOME (Indoor plants and activiti= es)
Check houseplant leaves for brown, dry edges, which in= dicate too little relative humidity in the house. Increase humidity by running a humidifier, grouping plants or using pebble trays.
Extend the lives of holiday plants, such as poinsettias and Christmas cactus, by placing them in a cool, brightly lit area that is free from warm= or cold drafts.
Houseplants may not receive adequate light because days are short and gloomy. Move plants closer to windows, but avoid placing foliage against co= ld glass panes. Artificial lighting may be helpful.
Because growth slows or stops in winter months, most plants will require less water and little, if any, fertilizer.
If you are forcing bulbs for the holidays, bring them into warmer temperatures after they have been sufficiently pre-cooled. Bulbs require a chilling period of about 10 to 12 weeks at 40 F to initiate flower buds and establish root growth. Pre-cooled bulbs are available from many garden suppliers if you did not get yours cooled in time. Then, provide two to four weeks of warm temperature (60 F), bright light and moderately moist soil to bring on flowers.
When shopping for a Christmas tree, check for green, flexible, firmly he= ld needles and a sticky trunk base -- both indicators of freshness. Make a fre= sh cut, and keep the cut end under water at all times.
Evergreens, except pines and spruce, can be trimmed now for a fresh supp= ly of holiday greenery.
YARD (Lawns, woody ornamentals and fruits)
Prevent bark-splitting of young and thin-barked trees,= such as fruit and maple trees. Wrap trunks with tree wrap, or paint trunks with = white latex (not oil-based) paint, particularly on the south- and southwest-facing sides.
Protect shrubs, such as junipers and arborvitae, from extensive snow loa= ds by tying their stems together with twine. Carefully remove heavy snow loads with a broom to prevent limb breakage.
Protect broadleaves, evergreens or other tender landscape plants from excessive drying (desiccation) by winter sun and wind. Canvas, burlap or polyethylene plastic screens to the south and west protect the plants. Similarly, shield plants from salt spray on the street side.
Provide winter protection for roses by mounding soil approximately 12 in= ches high to insulate the graft union, after plants are dormant and temperatures= are cold. Additional organic mulch, such as straw compost or chopped leaves, ca= n be placed on top.
GARDEN (Flowers, vegetables and small fruits)
To protect newly planted or tender perennials and bulb= s, mulch with straw, chopped leaves or other organic material after plants bec= ome dormant.
Store leftover garden chemicals where they will stay dry, unfrozen and o= ut of the reach of children, pets and unsuspecting adults.
Once the plants are completely dormant and temperatures are consistently below freezing, then the winter mulch can be applied to protect strawberrie= s and other tender perennials. In most cases, 2-4 inches of organic material, suc= h as straw, pine needles, hay or bark chips, will provide adequate protection.
Check produce and tender bulbs in storage, and discard any that show sig= ns of decay, such as mold or softening. Shriveling indicates insufficient rela= tive humidity.
Clean up dead plant materials, synthetic mulch and other debris in the vegetable garden, as well as in the flower beds, rose beds and orchards. Order seed catalogs, and make notes for next year's garden.