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County
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Advice from the Heartland |
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News Release -
Marion County How to Have a Good Lawn Without Pesticides If you envy your neighbor's beautiful lawn but don't want to use the pesticides suggested in a typical home lawn-care program, don't give up. Home lawns can be maintained with little or no pesticide use if some very basic lawn-care principles are carefully followed. Selecting the proper grass is the first step to having a good lawn without relying on pesticides. The best grass species for a particular yard will depend on the site. Some turfgrasses tolerate shade better than others. Some grasses do better with maintenance. A lawn with more than 10 percent ryegrass will often encounter more disease problems than a lawn with a blend of disease-resistant bluegrass varieties. Always purchase high-quality seed to help reduce weed problems. Proper mowing is essential for the pesticide-free lawn. Mow Kentucky bluegrass and most other lawns in this area at a height no lower than 3 inches. Mow frequently so that no more than one-third of the grass leaf blade is cut off at any one time. Lawns mowed too short are prone to weeds due to the lack of grass competition. Crabgrass needs light in order to sprout, so lawns cut too low allow more weed seed germination. Short mowing also results in a shallower root system due to less food production by the plant. A puny root system will be more susceptible to drought injury and less tolerant of both root-feeding insects like white grubs and root-damaging diseases. Infrequent mowing can shock the grass. This makes it more susceptible to plant stress. A dull mower blade bruises the grass. This can serve as an entry point for a disease such as leaf spot. Check regularly to make sure your lawn-mower blade is always sharp. Proper fertilization will result in fewer pesticide applications. Fertilizer is your best non-chemical weed control product to prevent weeds. Most lawns should be fertilized two or more times per year. The best time to fertilize is September. If you fertilize twice a year, put on the second application in November while the grass is still green. If three applications are needed, apply fertilizer in mid- to late May. Proper soil pH and fertility (especially nitrogen) will help the lawn to resist turfgrass pests. Take a soil test to determine what is needed. To help avoid excessive top growth and reduce disease, apply little or no fertilizer in early spring. Slow release nitrogen fertilizers will help reduce excessive top growth by providing a more uniform release of nutrients. Many established lawns have the ability to survive periods of drought. However, a dormant lawn in the summer is more likely to encourage weeds and may sustain more damage from insects and diseases. Proper watering can help prevent these problems. Water the lawn deeply at the first sign of needing water. It is usually best to apply at least one inch of water each time. Frequent shallow watering results in shallow rooting. This can make the lawn more susceptible to root damaging insects and diseases. Early morning is the best time to water the lawn. Evening watering may contribute to disease development. Prevention is the best form of weed control. You can help prevent weeds in established lawns by proper mowing, fertilizing and watering. A lawn newly planted in mid-August to mid-September will usually have less weed competition than a lawn planted in spring. A few scattered weeds can be eradicated by hand. To reduce disease problems, avoid fertilizing in early spring to reduce succulent growth. Water deeply and infrequently in the early morning. A properly maintained lawn will be more tolerant of insect feeding. A lawn that is watered and fertilized properly may tolerate up to 10 white grubs per square foot without visible injury, whereas the same population could devastate a weak turf. Keep in mind that a pesticide-free lawn may have a few more weeds and a dead spot once in a while. However, problems like these can be minimized through proper lawn selection and care. Steve Mayer is Extension Educator-Horticulture with Purdue Extension-Marion County. He coordinates the Master Gardener program in Marion County. To contact a Master Gardener, call (317) 275-9292, or e-mail: master.gardener@extension.purdue.edu
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