Plant Peas Early - Marion County
Soothe the Gardening Itch By Planting Peas
By Steve Mayer
Extension Educator-Horticulture
Purdue Extension-Marion County
If you have spring fever and are itching to sow some seeds in the garden, try peas. Garden peas (Pisum sativum) are one of the more cold tolerant vegetables grown in Indiana. If you have never grown peas, give them a try and help the National Garden Bureau celebrate 2004 as the Year of the Pea.
Sow pea seeds in March as soon as it is dry enough to work the soil. Peas are best planted in early spring because they thrive in cool, moist weather. The optimum soil temperature range for the germination of peas is 40 to 75 degrees F.
Early planting is important because peas do not produce well during the heat of summer. Peas can be difficult to grow as a fall crop because the seed does not germinate properly in soil temperatures much above 85 degrees F.
Peas need a sunny location and well-drained soil. Sow seeds about one inch deep and two inches apart in the row. Short varieties can be grown in rows 18 to 24 inches apart. Taller plants may need 3 feet between rows. A trellis can be used for tall varieties (plant a double row 6-8 inches apart on each side of the trellis).
If you dislike the task of removing the peas from their pods, choose one of the edible podded peas. There are three major types of garden peas: 1) English peas (shelling peas), 2) snow peas (Chinese or sugar peas) and 3) snap peas (peas with thick-walled pods). When harvested properly, the pods of snow peas and snap peas can be eaten.
English peas are harvested when the pods are well-filled. The seeds are plump and round but still tender and sweet. The pods are opened and the peas are removed (shelling). When small and tender, these peas can be eaten raw in salads.
Suggested English pea cultivars include: Spring (early season), Knight (early, short vines), Bolero (mid-season), Green Arrow (mid- to late, long holding in garden) and Lincoln (mid- to late, very sweet).
Snow peas are the thin-podded oriental types used for their tender pods. Harvest when the pods have reached their full length but are still flat (before peas reach the size of BBs). The small tender pods can be eaten raw in salads or stir-fried or steamed. If the peas enlarge inside the pods, shell and use as English peas. However, typically they are not as sweet as English peas.
Snow peas you might try are: Oregon Giant (mid- to late, large pods), Snowflake (late, dark green) and Super Sugar Pod (late, long vines).
Snap peas have thick-walled, low-fiber pods. Like snap beans, they are allowed to grow to full size and eaten along with the larger, sweeter seeds inside.
Snap peas suggested for Indiana include: Sugar Bon (early, short vines), Sugar Ann (early, short vines), Cascadia (main season) and Super Snappy (main, large pods).
Fertilize before planting based on soil test results. Adjust the pH to 6.0-6.8 if necessary. Avoid applying fertilizer directly with the seed because the sprouting pea seed is very sensitive to fertilizer salt injury. Extra nitrogen during the growing season is often not needed.
Irrigate when the soil is dry and control weeds. The first six weeks after planting are the most critical for weed control. A 2-inch deep organic mulch will help control weeds and conserve moisture.
Peas planted in early spring are ready for harvest in June. Fresh picked peas have a wonderful flavor. It is best if peas are prepared right away because the sugar in them rapidly turns to starch (even in the refrigerator). Under some conditions as much as 40 percent of the sugar may be converted to starch within a few hours after picking.
You can store peas in the refrigerator for several days if you cool them immediately after harvest. They can also be frozen, canned or dried for later use.
Questions
Q. What pest problems can I expect growing peas?
A. Insects rarely cause significant problems on peas in the home garden. Possible insects include aphids, various caterpillars and seed corn maggots.
Potential diseases include root roots, powdery mildew, wilt diseases and viruses. These problems can often be avoided by planting only in well-drained soil, changing the planting location each year, planting early, controlling aphids (viruses), eliminating overhead irrigation late in the day and choosing mildew and wilt resistant varieties. Disease resistance of different varieties is available here.
Steve Mayer is Extension Educator-Horticulture with Purdue Extension-Marion County. He coordinates the Master Gardener program in Marion County. To contact a Master Gardener, call (317) 275-9292, or e-mail: marionmg@purdue.edu
Photo Credit: National Garden Bureau
Purdue University, Indiana Counties and U.S. Department of Agriculture Cooperating. An Affirmative Action/Equal Opportunity Institution.
March 2004
